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Moving right along, we continue cutting and assembling parts for the steamer trunk. I spend a good deal of time on techniques that will help you when working with plans. The key is to realize that some parts need to be cut using measurements from your project, NOT from the plan itself. I also spend some time creating the thicker top panels, since they are not as simple as they appear from the outside.
Now that all the joinery is pretty much complete, I show you an alternative method for making the tongue and groove joints that could very well be faster and easier, if you have a router table. I use a tongue and groove bit set from Eagle America. Check out the links below if you are interested in going that route.
And why do I wear a dunce cap in this episode? You’ll have to watch to find out.
Links:
Tongue & Groove Bit Set
Coping Sled
Razor Saw
For the Sketchup File of the new revised top, click here. For a PDF version of the new top, click here.
And if you would like to donate to the cause, please check out the following links:
American Cancer Society
James Cancer Center
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Steamer Trunk Plan and Hardware This plan shows you how to build your very own classic trunk… |
Quick Links:
Steamer Trunk, Pt. 1
Steamer Trunk, Pt. 2
Steamer Trunk, Pt. 3
Steamer Trunk, Pt. 4
15 Responses to “83 – Duane’s Steamer Trunk Pt. 2”
Dude, something runs under your shop-vac at exactly 3:00. What is that mysterious critter?
haha, that’s just one of my many little lizard buddies that hang out in my shop.
Nice! Yet another reason why your shop is awesome.
Like the intro. Downloading the rest as I type.
Matt
Marc,
I always learn something from your vids.
I love it when you show real life events(screw ups)like the rest of us(me anyway) have. It makes me feel human.
Keep ‘um comin’
Jim
Kodak, TN
Love the show! I’ve had problems with the way the tray support is designed. If you lift up on one side of the tray when it’s in the trunk, the other end side of the tray falls off the support and into the bottom of the trunk.
I’ve thought about putting the supports on the front and back sides. This would add more weight to the trunk, but then you have an option of having a sliding half tray.
Thanks for not “erasing” the mess ups…I like to see how you fix your “whoops” moments. Great idea on fixing the gap in the frame…you made that look so simple. Love the dunce cap…too funny!!!
Sunshine Gerl :)
I found it curious that you didn’t check for squareness on the panels. Granted, if all the cuts are square (and the correct length), then squareness shouldn’t be an issue… but we all know how that goes.
For example, I recently glued 2 doors (5′ x 2′) and they were about 1/64″ off corner-to-corner. I couldn’t decide if that was enough to worry about. Since they are doors, there is some adjustment, but if it were part of a fixed piece…?
Bill
Great episode (so far, waiting to download the rest).
Silly question, but what’s that angled perpex thing next to your table saw (at 6 mins)?
That’s my new Brett Guard. Its a blade guard that happens to be flipped up and out of the way in that scene.
hold up!!!
is that a one of the custom P M table saw behind you from the Woodwerks pod cast nice!!!!!!! :)
lol yes it is…
Marc,
Love your site great advice. I also really appreciate the fact that when you make a mistake be it regarding safety or a fabrication error you actually show it in the video and also show how to go about correcting it. I feel like I have really learned some valuable information from your videos.
Thanks,
Dave
I just found you a couple weeks ago and have been watching the videos to get me up to speed with your projects, etc. Love you man!!
Just wanted to put in my two cents: For panels obviously you want them to have some ‘breathing’ room, but you don’t want them to be loose. Here is what I do. I layout beads of silicone on wax paper and after they have cured I slice them into strips and keep them in a jar. I use these little bits of silicone in the groove and it keeps the panel snug but is still flexible enough to allow for expansion. The bonus is that they also reduce the need for exactness when cutting the panels since the are a ‘buffer’.
Awesome Tip Tony! Thanks dude!