Comments on: 68- Gadget Station (Pt. 11)

By: thewoodwhisperer

thewoodwhisperer — Sun, 19 Sep 2010 15:26:34 +0000

Hey Jonathon. I didn’t have to do anything to reinforce the spalted maple. I suppose you might have problems with excessive spalting or one that just happen to create an unstable board. I simply jointed, planed, resawed, and finished as normal. But that doesn’t mean that will always be the case. Some spalted will need reinforcement.

By: Johnathon

Johnathon — Sun, 19 Sep 2010 03:49:44 +0000

Marc,
Just watching the video’s for the first time and like how you spend time on all aspects of the project (most shows gloss over truing and squaring or glue-ups). I am interested in using spalted Maple for a similar project but I have heard it can be difficult to mill. Unfortunately the only portion you showed with the spalted Maple was the re-sawing to get the book matched panels. Were you able to joint and plane them or did you have to do something special? I have heard that you have to reinforce the spalting with glue etc.

By: DerekL

DerekL — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 00:42:07 +0000

That sound you just heard is me slapping my forehead and going “D’oh!”.

Yet another thing that’s clearly obvious once it’s explained. :) :)

Thanks Marc.

By: thewoodwhisperer

thewoodwhisperer — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 17:31:32 +0000

I see what your saying. But in this case, we aren’t making a copy of the shape. We are trying mimic what the slot cutting bit would have cut. And for all intents and purposes, the slot cutting bit is doing the same thing I did with the compass, creating a profile that is a specific distance from the original line. Make sense?

By: DerekL

DerekL — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 17:24:57 +0000

If you watch the video, while you’re scribing the left and right sides of the ‘cloud lift’ (for lack of a better term) your compass is perpendicular to the line and thus parallel to the long edges. When you scribe the curved portion, you turn your compass and stay perpendicular to the line, resulting in a scribed line that’s different from the original line.

Everything I’ve seen says to keep the compass in the same orientation regardless of what the line does so you get a true copy. (The same way a key machine or lathe duplicator works.)

By: thewoodwhisperer

thewoodwhisperer — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 17:19:24 +0000

I don’t understand what you mean Derek. Could you elaborate?

By: DerekL

DerekL — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 17:01:32 +0000

Watching you scribe the lines on the door, why did you remain perpendicular to the line rather than parallel to the long side? Doing it the way you did makes a different shape than the other way.

By: thewoodwhisperer

thewoodwhisperer — Tue, 28 Oct 2008 08:36:35 +0000

Hey Joab. No real strategy involved. Just showing how it can be done multiple ways. And I believe I was using a magnetic featherboard to hold the ebony stock. Helps keep things that much safer on those small parts.

By: thewoodwhisperer

thewoodwhisperer — Tue, 28 Oct 2008 06:36:17 +0000

Hey Phil. That is a very good idea. Whenever I can finish my panels ahead of time, I do. You will notice that in this series, I did not do that. I basically changed the order of things just a bit for the sake of continuity in the video.

By: Phil _W

Phil _W — Mon, 27 Oct 2008 18:35:08 +0000

Marc,
I’ve been following along and building a couple of campaign boxes in a Greene and Greene style. The lids will have panel tops much like your doors. Because the panels will move, should I finish them before assemble the lids? Otherwise, a line is going to show up every time it rains (in the Pacific NW)?

Phil