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	<title>Comments on: 64- Gadget Station (Pt. 7)</title>
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	<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/64-gadget-station-pt-7/</link>
	<description>Education and Entertainment for the modern woodworker.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 16:43:08 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/64-gadget-station-pt-7/#comment-54920</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Mar 2010 01:29:37 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>thanks Dan.  And guess what&#039;s for dinner tonight?  Ravioli baby!  :)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>thanks Dan.  And guess what&#8217;s for dinner tonight?  Ravioli baby!  :)</p>
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		<title>By: Dan</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/64-gadget-station-pt-7/#comment-54919</link>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Mar 2010 00:42:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1495#comment-54919</guid>
		<description>Hey Marc, 

Excellent point. I guess this would then only work if the size of the curve was small enough to leave enough of a stable surface.

P.S. Thanks man, i love how you take the time to respond to your viewers. I&#039;m working through your videos just recently. Cheers for everything you&#039;re doing. I LOVE RAVIOLI!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Marc, </p>
<p>Excellent point. I guess this would then only work if the size of the curve was small enough to leave enough of a stable surface.</p>
<p>P.S. Thanks man, i love how you take the time to respond to your viewers. I&#8217;m working through your videos just recently. Cheers for everything you&#8217;re doing. I LOVE RAVIOLI!</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/64-gadget-station-pt-7/#comment-54903</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Mar 2010 15:28:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1495#comment-54903</guid>
		<description>Because if you do, the side you just cut the first curve on would then be facing down.  While its possible to do it this way, its not very stable.  I prefer having a nice flat and stable surface when I am making these cuts.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Because if you do, the side you just cut the first curve on would then be facing down.  While its possible to do it this way, its not very stable.  I prefer having a nice flat and stable surface when I am making these cuts.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Dan</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/64-gadget-station-pt-7/#comment-54899</link>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Mar 2010 06:34:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1495#comment-54899</guid>
		<description>Hi Marc,

When you cut out the leg (3:30) you didn&#039;t go all the way through, then you added a shim and blue taped it so your other cut line on the 90 degree wasn&#039;t removed. Cool idea, but... as you have a template that can effectively be inverted on the back side of the leg why not just draw the second cut line there?

Cheers.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Marc,</p>
<p>When you cut out the leg (3:30) you didn&#8217;t go all the way through, then you added a shim and blue taped it so your other cut line on the 90 degree wasn&#8217;t removed. Cool idea, but&#8230; as you have a template that can effectively be inverted on the back side of the leg why not just draw the second cut line there?</p>
<p>Cheers.</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/64-gadget-station-pt-7/#comment-47209</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Sep 2009 19:11:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1495#comment-47209</guid>
		<description>Hey David.  I can&#039;t recall the exact episode number but I definitely covered the attachment of the legs.  Check out the whole series and you will see how I did it.  Really, you don&#039;t need any tools because its a long-grain glue bond.  The glue is enough to hold the legs into the sides.  But you can use dowels or biscuits to aid in alignment.  But that&#039;s really optional.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey David.  I can&#8217;t recall the exact episode number but I definitely covered the attachment of the legs.  Check out the whole series and you will see how I did it.  Really, you don&#8217;t need any tools because its a long-grain glue bond.  The glue is enough to hold the legs into the sides.  But you can use dowels or biscuits to aid in alignment.  But that&#8217;s really optional.</p>
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		<title>By: david</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/64-gadget-station-pt-7/#comment-47207</link>
		<dc:creator>david</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Sep 2009 18:47:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1495#comment-47207</guid>
		<description>this is one of the tightest things i seen made outta wood ima try to do the same but a lil enternaminte center for my ps3 im just wondering how u put the legs on and what tools would i need cuz i only got a miter saw some glue a table saw and a sander lol</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>this is one of the tightest things i seen made outta wood ima try to do the same but a lil enternaminte center for my ps3 im just wondering how u put the legs on and what tools would i need cuz i only got a miter saw some glue a table saw and a sander lol</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Chaim Gottesman</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/64-gadget-station-pt-7/#comment-33521</link>
		<dc:creator>Chaim Gottesman</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 28 Sep 2008 21:51:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1495#comment-33521</guid>
		<description>Yo Mark, One of your best videos to date. I really enjoyed it and learned from your design compromise.
Thanks,
Chaim</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yo Mark, One of your best videos to date. I really enjoyed it and learned from your design compromise.<br />
Thanks,<br />
Chaim</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Vince</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/64-gadget-station-pt-7/#comment-33479</link>
		<dc:creator>Vince</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 28 Sep 2008 14:48:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1495#comment-33479</guid>
		<description>Marc,

The Gadget Station looks great!

I agree that cutting the curve on the back of the rear legs looks better, but I have an alternative suggestion to offer...

What if you had marked the rear curve, and routed it out (about a half an inch deep), then ebonized it or simply painted it black?  That would have provided the visual you were looking for while preserving the piece&#039;s ability to hide the french cleat and be &quot;hangable.&quot;

Just a thought, let me know what you think.

Really enjoy the show, keep up the good work!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Marc,</p>
<p>The Gadget Station looks great!</p>
<p>I agree that cutting the curve on the back of the rear legs looks better, but I have an alternative suggestion to offer&#8230;</p>
<p>What if you had marked the rear curve, and routed it out (about a half an inch deep), then ebonized it or simply painted it black?  That would have provided the visual you were looking for while preserving the piece&#8217;s ability to hide the french cleat and be &#8220;hangable.&#8221;</p>
<p>Just a thought, let me know what you think.</p>
<p>Really enjoy the show, keep up the good work!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Vic</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/64-gadget-station-pt-7/#comment-33348</link>
		<dc:creator>Vic</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 27 Sep 2008 06:45:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1495#comment-33348</guid>
		<description>The design is progressing well.    I disagree with the idea that reversing the angle of the end cuts would better compliment the curve.  Do a quick sketch and you&#039;ll see, while reversing the angle  would work,  the direction and angle you decided upon does a better job of &quot;stretching&quot; the legs.  Small boxes, such as this, have a propensity to end up looking very much like a &quot;box&quot;.  Small design considerations are what separate the mundane from the fabulous.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The design is progressing well.    I disagree with the idea that reversing the angle of the end cuts would better compliment the curve.  Do a quick sketch and you&#8217;ll see, while reversing the angle  would work,  the direction and angle you decided upon does a better job of &#8220;stretching&#8221; the legs.  Small boxes, such as this, have a propensity to end up looking very much like a &#8220;box&#8221;.  Small design considerations are what separate the mundane from the fabulous.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: John</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/64-gadget-station-pt-7/#comment-33283</link>
		<dc:creator>John</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Sep 2008 18:50:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1495#comment-33283</guid>
		<description>Marc,
Nice episode.  This project is shaping up nicely.  I thought about your french cleat dilemma for those who want to hang this cabinet on a wall.  

If you centered a cleat across the back that was only a few inches long and not full width it would really never show from the side unless someone was able to look down the  wall from a long distance.  And keep the cleat as short as possible, from top to bottom.  The top half would only have to extend below the top shelf enough to cut the chamfer along its bottom edge.  The bottom cleat (the one that mounts on the wall) would only have to be a bit wider than necessary to screw to the wall and enough meat for the 45 degree chamfer on its top edge.  That would make the mated cleats fairly short from top to bottom, maybe 3&quot; or so?  Paint the ends black and it&#039;ll really disappear.  Going to the extreme, cut the ends of the cleat at a 45 (from top to bottom) so it fades away at something similar to the rate of curvature of your uprights.  I could send a SketchUp if this isn&#039;t quite clear.

Another benefit: having a gap at the ends beyond the cleat would help let air flow up the back and out the top which meets your design goal of more easily allowing airflow through the cabinet to cool chargers, etc.

Sorry for the run-on, great work!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Marc,<br />
Nice episode.  This project is shaping up nicely.  I thought about your french cleat dilemma for those who want to hang this cabinet on a wall.  </p>
<p>If you centered a cleat across the back that was only a few inches long and not full width it would really never show from the side unless someone was able to look down the  wall from a long distance.  And keep the cleat as short as possible, from top to bottom.  The top half would only have to extend below the top shelf enough to cut the chamfer along its bottom edge.  The bottom cleat (the one that mounts on the wall) would only have to be a bit wider than necessary to screw to the wall and enough meat for the 45 degree chamfer on its top edge.  That would make the mated cleats fairly short from top to bottom, maybe 3&#8243; or so?  Paint the ends black and it&#8217;ll really disappear.  Going to the extreme, cut the ends of the cleat at a 45 (from top to bottom) so it fades away at something similar to the rate of curvature of your uprights.  I could send a SketchUp if this isn&#8217;t quite clear.</p>
<p>Another benefit: having a gap at the ends beyond the cleat would help let air flow up the back and out the top which meets your design goal of more easily allowing airflow through the cabinet to cool chargers, etc.</p>
<p>Sorry for the run-on, great work!</p>
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